Watches I Would Buy (If I Could Afford Them)

The List

This is not a technical post.

But as an engineer, mechanical watches are naturally of great interest to me.

So here are the five watches I would buy (if I could afford them), and the reasons why.

1. François-Paul Journe - Sonnerie Souveraine

~$1,000,000

Perhaps the most technically superior Sonnerie watch ever built, from a watchmaker known for uncompromising brilliance.

2. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual

~$150,000

The flagship model from the only other brand worthy of standing alongside the the top-three iconic Swiss watchmakers listed below.

3. The Patek Philippe 5270R (5270G preferably)

~$150,000

The last three watches are the most beautiful.

You can see the tourbillon in all of them (the tourbillon nullifies the effect of gravity by moving constantly in a circle).

Some consider the tourbillon a gimmick but it actually makes the watch more accurate.

It also looks amazing!

In fact you can see most moving parts in the last three.

 

4. Symphonia Grande Sonnerie 1860 - Vacheron Constantin

~$1,000,000

Simple but gorgeous design, a transparent sapphire back to view the complications, and a brand counted among watchmaking royalty.

5. Audemars Piguet - Royal Oak (caliber 3129)

~$100,000

The most affordable of the members of the Swiss watchmaking trifecta listed here, the 3129 has no fancy complication to offer.

It's just one of the best finished examples of skeletonized (openworked) watchmaking available today, and perhaps the best candidate for showcasing the functional beauty of a mechanical watch.

Honorable mentions

The Grand Seiko - Spring Drive

~$5,000

Possibly the most accurate mechanical watch around, the Grand Seiko is possibly the most technically superior watch here.

Seiko is revolutionary in many respects, the least of which being popularizing the quartz movement and becoming the largest watchmaker in the world in the process. Grand Seiko, in particular, won so many Swiss chronometric competitions that the Swiss had to stop conducting them.

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Explained

Macro - 9R65

Close-Up Macro Shots of the 9R65 Spring Drive Movement in the Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake”.

Why Grand Seiko Is Better Than Rolex

Seiko Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Spring drive SBGA375 | IPPO JAPAN WATCH

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA375 Midnight Blue. A contemporary take on the 1967 44GS.

Grand Seiko SBGA375: In-Depth First Look!

Great 4k shots of the SBGA375 dial, case and movement.

Horage Tourbillon 1

~$6,000

A Swiss Tourbillon for $6k. Nuff said.

Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TVA (aka Titanium Virtual Armor)

~$1,600

Titatium case and strap, with diamond-like carbon coating; the ultimate watch for when you have a rough day ahead.

The Breitling Navitimer

~$9,000

A great machine to own purely from an engineering standpoint.

A $10k tool that lets you manually perform arithmetic calculations, after a fair bit of time spent learning how to use it. Perfect!

Should be great for outsmarting any digital calculator and smartphone carrying punks once the inevitable apocalyptic EMP blasts happen.

Seiko Prospex LX

~$7,000

As a swimmer myself, the most technically-superior water-resistant luxury watch in existence is naturally appealing.

The Rolex Datejust 

~$9,000

The Rolex Datejust is very plain looking.

(The same goes for the Grand Seiko)

But these watches are designed more for reliability and performance than looks.

The Rolex Datejust has historical value because it was the first perpetual watch with a dedicated date display.

(The Rolex GMT-Master II looks better. The Datejust is more plain but it’s the classic Rolex. They’re both about the same price)

Like the Grand Seiko, the Rolex Datejust is a collectible.

They are also both good value for money.

Relatively!

The Piaget 900p Altiplano

~$25,000

On the list for obvious reasons; this one is an engineering and design marvel.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato

~$12,000

Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and Patek Phillippe are the top-three most luxurious Swiss watchmakers.

But the Girard Perregaux is half the price as its peers in those brands, and just as iconic.

Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 - Vacheron Constantin

~$1,000,000

Very few machines can combine technical brilliance (it times the solar and lunar tides!), and drop-dead gorgeous aesthetics. This one does.

Credor Eichi II

~$70,000

With a painstakingly hand-made porcelain dial and hand-painted markers, this is — as the reviewer says — the most affordable Philippe Dufour you will ever find.

Philippe Dufour Simplicity 37

~$700,000

Platinum case and lacquer dial. Only about 200 of the these were ever made.

F. P. Journe and others talk about Philippe Dufour — the greatest watchmaker alive — and his four models.

Grand Seiko SBGD001

~$70,000

Platinum case, diamond-dust dial, triple barrels, and an 8-day power reserve; all in addition to the usual Grand Seiko excellence in execution.

H. Moser & Cie. Swiss Alp Watch 5324-0101

~$25,000

Trolling some of the high-end watch industry's ludicrousness, when you have $25k and more lying around; but with good execution.

Jaeger-LeCoultre - The 2021 Four Face Reverso

~$1,500,000

The only watch in the world with four moving faces, and designed based on the golden-ratio. The 2021 Four Face Reverso comes with 11 complications; including a perpetual calendar, chimes and three lunar cycles. The video includes a great graphical explanation of solar and lunar phases too. There is however a slight catch - it costs €1.3m.

4K Videos

4K Ultra HD videos of the top brands, to fully appreciate the artistry and finish on the large screen.

A. Lange & Söhne + Credor

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 211.032. Credor Mokume Gane GBBY986.

A. Lange & Söhne

Patek Philippe

Audemars Piguet

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph 5100T/000R-B623.

Macro - 9SA5 vs 9R65

Close-Up Macro Shots of the 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 Movement vs the 9R65 Spring Drive Movement; the Grand Seiko SLGH005 “White Birch” vs the Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake”.